You could switch to a wireless communication, like Bluetooth or WiFi. The most certain way is to cut the loop, which means removing the cable, or replacing it with something that isn’t a wire. Now that you’re an expert, solving the problem (or avoiding it entirely), is pretty straightforward. It’s not uncommon for there to be a 50 or 60 hertz hum in audio equipment thanks to the effects of ground loops. Another way to think of it is as one half of a transformer it’s a single loop and a good portion of that loop is right next to the live wire of the building power with a constantly changing current. This creates a loop, and, through electromagnetic induction coupled to all kinds of AC signals around, a stray current which then leaks through various circuits. The cable snakes its way to your entertainment center, where it plugs into your receiver, which is grounded to earth in a different place. This is an analog signal that comes into your house and is grounded to earth in one place, usually outside your house. This is particularly noticeable in analog AV setups, where the result is audio hum or visible bars in a picture, but is also sometimes the cause of unexplained equipment failures. This provides two separate paths to ground (B can go through its own connection to ground or it can go through the ground of the cable to A and then to A’s ground), and means that current may start flowing in unanticipated ways. The ground loop in a nutshell is what happens when two separate devices (A and B) are connected to ground separately, and then also connected to each other through some kind of communication cable with a ground, creating a loop. Understanding them will doubtless save you money and hassle. I disconnected the monitor system and everything works fine with the GFCI and Galvanic isolator in place.These magical creatures crop up out of nowhere and fry your electronics or annoy your ear holes. In fact, I contacted the manufacturer of my galvanic isolation system (Pro Mariner) and they recommended I disconnect the monitor because they are familiar with this issue. Only disabling the monitoring can one overcome the fault, as its designed to do what it's doing to test to make sure the system is operating normally.Ĭhris in Texas is exactly right. It's this testing when the system is turned on and every 6 hours afterwards that will create the ground fault. To maintain the ABYC requirements, the system must be monitored and tested, and requires the status be presented to the user. What it is, is the monitoring system for the galvanic isolator. It's not the galvanic isolator itself that causes the tripping. I had to disconnect the isolators in order to use the electric with GFI. Part of what it does is send a "short" to test the ground, and that will trip the GFI every time. It was the Galvanic Isolator for my problem. I'm no expert, but I had the same problem with a GFI at the lift I rent. WOW! Just came across these older posts that might change things. So yes it does seem to be pointing to a faulty controls module. The only time I see a reading is between the supply wire to the GI that I disconnected and the ground but it's low at 012.50m ohms. (Given that a zero reading would be a short circuit) With shore power disconnected the resistance between neutral and hot is high (or no reading no short), between neutral and ground is no reading, between hot and ground is no reading. I have tested with the system live and get 124V readings between ground and the hot wire and between the hot and neutral but less than one volt between ground and neutral. At this point the only wire I have disconnected is the 100v supply to the GI module, the ground wire is still connected from shore power through the isolator and to the panel board ground bus bar. The shore power may be GFCI how can you tell? see photo, However the photo shows it should be connected after the breaker not on the hot line-in side as it was in my case. This model GI does connect to the main hot line as seen on the attached photo.
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